Saturday, December 12, 2020

Lebkuchen

 

Lebkuchen (Source: Maida Heatter's New Book of Great Desserts (Alfred A. Knopf, 1982. pg. 310. Also in Maida Heatter's Cookies (Andrews & McMeel Publishing, 1997 ed.), pg. 104.

Apologies for the terrible job on glazing these cookies! In the recipe, Maida states that the glaze will turn clear but this didn't happen with me. Perhaps the cookies cooled too much before I could got the glaze on them.

These cookies were not really hard to make but I did find the recipe a bit confusing. It is a different technique from any other of her recipes that I've tried. This is a 2-day job because they sit overnight before baking the next day. At first, I thought that she must mean that the cookies must chill overnight but no, they actually sit on the counter loosely covered with plastic wrap.  

This is a very sticky dough and very difficult to work with. She recommended using a pastry cloth which I've never used nor own. I don't know if that would have made it any easier. I found that I had to continually flour my board and rolling pin to keep it from sticking. I also veered away from her instructions on cutting these into 2 x 4" inch oblong shapes. Instead, I just used my biscuit cutter. My cookies came out very thin but nicely shaped. Apparently, this recipe is very forgiving although I'm still not sure if mine look the way Maida intended them.

Despite all this, I love the cookies and think they taste wonderful. Very Christmas-y! The cookies are firm (she says they will soften after a few days).

I looked up various other recipes for lebkuchen online and they all vary, from the technique to the ingredients. Most of the recipes that I saw did not call for them sitting overnight.

This is a traditional German cookie that is popular during the holidays. I've seen them covered in chocolate which sounds so tempting but I strictly adhered to this recipe and no chocolate is involved.

For the diced citrus mix, I used the fruit cake mix that is readily available this time of year in grocery stores.

1 1/4 cups blanched almonds
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cloves
1 cup granulated sugar
1 TBS. plus 1 1/2 tsp. brandy
1/3 cup honey
3/4 cup mixed candied citron, lemon rind and orange rind, diced
3 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

Makes 28 large cookies

Grind the almonds to a fine powder -


Beat the eggs until thickened (about two minutes).  Add the baking powder, salt, cinnamon, cloves and gradually add the sugar. Continue to beat until the batter has a ribbon-like consistency.


On low speed, add the almonds, brandy, honey and the fruit mixture.


 


Gradually add 3 cups of the flour (reserving 1/2 cup), scraping the bowl as necessary.


 

Remove the bowl from the mixer and stir in the remaining flour with a wooden spoon. It will be a very thick batter.


Roll out about 1/3 of the dough at a time. A pastry cloth is recommended. I did not have one and used my usual board and rolling pin. The dough is very sticky and requires frequent flouring. Roll it out to a 1/4" inch thickness. Keep turning it over and flouring each side. Cut the cookies into 2 x 4" oblongs or do as I did and use a cookie cutter.


 Transfer the cookies with a spatula to two large cookie sheets that have been lined with parchment paper or a non-stick sheet (they will stick to foil). 

Cover loosely with plastic wrap and allow them to sit overnight on the counter.


 

Day #2

Bake the cookies at 325 degrees for 20 minutes. Place the first sheet in the oven and wait 5 minutes before putting the second sheet in the oven. Rotate the pans halfway through.

Prepare the glaze while the cookies are baking.

1 1/2 cups sifted confectioners sugar
1 TBS. lemon juice
1 TBS. boiling water

Whisk the ingredients together. The glaze will be very thick. 


 After the cookies are out of the oven, brush them with the glaze.

After the glaze has dried, the cookies can be stored airtight or wrapped in cellophane.



Sunday, November 22, 2020

Orange Chocolate Loaf Cake from Florida


Orange Chocolate Loaf from Florida (Source: Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts (Andrews & McMeel Publishing, 2006 ed.), pg. 91.

Here in southwest Washington, winter weather is encroaching rapidly. It has been colder than usual (today's high was only 41). The rainy season begins in November here and it is in full swing. Since I'm not working this winter, I am spending much more time in the kitchen. The weather is perfect for baking. As much as I love being outside in the garden, the change of season is comforting to me and I enjoy the change of pace. The coziness of these days appeals to me greatly as long as I don't have to be out in it.

I have done a lot of baking over the last decade but glancing through the Maida Heatter books on my shelf, I see a lot of recipes still unmarked. There are many that I have intentionally avoided, such as pastries, which still intimidate me. So, before I get to the latest recipe, I would like to pose a question for readers (and, if you have any further suggestions, feel free to leave a comment or send me an e-mail) -

What kind of recipes would you like to see more of?
Cakes
Cookies
Pies
Candies
Breads
Other
Created with QuizMaker

Now, on to my latest venture - which actually sounds like more of a summer-y dessert - the Orange Chocolate Loaf Cake featured in my favorite book Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts.

This isn't the first time I've made this cake. I made it before I started this blog. It was one of the first Maida Heatter recipes I tried.  Eyeing at a bag of oranges on the kitchen counter brought this recipe to mind. So, here I am making it again, this time for the blog and with photos.

I've always loved the combination of orange and chocolate. One of my favorite Christmas presents every year is a box of the chocolate orange slices. They are sooo good!

This cake has a more subtle flavor and is most unusual - it is made with whipped cream instead of butter. There is no icing. I do think it would be nice with frosting but it is certainly great the way it is. I like it with vanilla ice cream. In her introduction, Maida says that it is good with a glass of orange juice and I tried that and totally agree with her. 

When you begin to apply the orange glaze, you will probably think that it is going to be way too much. Don't worry. All of it will soak into the cake without making it overly moist.

Do pay attention to the baking time. The 65 minutes noted is way too long in my opinion. I think 40 minutes is more like it. I would recommend that you begin checking the cake after 40 minutes.

As usual, use the best cocoa powder you can find for the recipe. It will make a big difference!

1 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch process)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 large eggs
Grated zest of 1 large orange

Preheat the oven to 350. Use the lower 1/3 positioned rack. Spray or butter and flour an 8 x 4 x 2 inch loaf pan. 

Whisk or sift the flour, baking powder, salt and cocoa until well combined.


 

Beat the cream and vanilla until the cream holds a soft shape. Lower the speed on the mixer and add the eggs, one at a time, mixing just until incorporated.



 

On low speed, add the flour mixture gradually, scraping the sides of the bowl, until well mixed.


 

Finally, stir in the orange zest.


 

Transfer the batter to the loaf pan. The batter will be very thick and sticky.

 



 

Although the recipe says to bake this for 1 hour and 5 minutes, I think that is way too much. Both times I've made it, it took about 40 minutes. Begin checking at 40 minutes and remove it from the oven when the top springs back after being lightly pressed.

While the cake is baking, make the glaze by mixing -

1/3 cup orange juice
3 tablespoons granulated sugar





When the cake is done, let it sit in the pan for about 5 minutes. Then, without removing it from the pan, brush the top of the cake with the glaze. The cake will absorb it. Continue to brush with the glaze until it is all used. 

Let the cake cool completely while still inside the pan. After cooling, the cake should slip out of the pan. 

 

Text and photos by Phillip Oliver

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Friday, November 13, 2020

Plantation Pecan Cookies


Plantation Pecan Cookies
(Source: Maida Heatter's New Book of Great Desserts (Alfred A. Knopf, 1982. pg. 244.

These remind me of pecan sandies. They are not too sweet and light in texture. The flavor is great and you'll want more than one.  

Very easy to make. The recipe does have a small yield so if you are baking for a crowd, you might do more than one batch.

1 cup pecans
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 lb. (1 stick) butter
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 tsp. prepared coffee, water or brandy
22 pecan halves

Combine the pecans and 1/4 of the flour (reserving the remaining 3/4 cup) in a food processor. Process for about 15 seconds or until fine. 


 

Beat the butter until soft. Add the vanilla, salt, and sugar.

Beat for a minute or two until combined. 

Beat the in the coffee (or water or brandy). 

On low speed, add the flour gradually.

Add the ground pecans and beat until well mixed. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as necessary.


 

Transfer the batter to a piece of aluminum foil (you can also use parchment or wax paper). Flatten it out and wrap it. Place it in the refrigerator or freezer until it is firm.


 

Preheat the oven to 375. Use the bottom 1/3 rack.

Remove the chilled dough and cut it into twenty-two equal pieces.


Roll the pieces into balls and place on a baking sheet about 1 1/2 inches apart. Press them down slightly and top each with a whole pecan.


Bake for 18 - 20 minutes until golden brown.

Transfer to a wire rack for cooling.